Dean Frost's British Isles Coastal Bike Ride

Article in today's MEN

2010-09-24T17:21:00.002+01:00

For anyone who is interested, and in the Greater Manchester Area I'm on page 28 of today's Manchester Evening News, described as a "fitness fanatic" and "cycling mad". I suppose it's all relative but it makes me sound like a "terrorist" or a "nutter". Not to worry, it's all in good humor. I'm also featured on their website news page today and that of the Trafford Metro News.
Cyclist, 52, rides 5,000 miles round the British coastline for African charity
and eats hamster. And why is my age so newsworthy. There are people 10 and 20 years older than me touring GB all the time. It's no big deal really.
Generating a few comments regarding giving to African Charities, if you want to join in.

Back home - 73 days and 4670 miles later

2010-09-21T15:23:00.002+01:00

After a very windy day and tricky cycling with a cross wind through Liverpool the last day was pretty easy going back along the Trans Pennine Trail. I had plenty of time in hand when I reached Fiddlers Ferry and the Ferry Tavern. The same place I stopped off at with Dave Leak on the first day of my grand tour. This time with time to kill I went in for a pint of Ruddles County and great chat with the regulars at the bar. If you needed an incentive to come cycling on the TP trail, a visit to the Ferry Tavern is a good one. It certainly added to the mild euphoria I was experiencing about being homeward bound. I might make it a regular event . If anyone fancies joining me on a Sunday cycle out there in the future, just give me a call. The pub also holds outdoor one day music festivals during the summer. So I hope to get a gig there, for YesSir next year.

I arrived home just after 5pm to a great reception from my close family with balloons, poppers and bubbly and plenty of party food. I should say a special thankyou to my sister Lynne for being the main driver for this little celebration. In the past week Lynne had also been busy enlisting the interest of the local press. and I've given a couple of interviews to the MEN and Trafford Metro in the past few days. So I should feature in a couple of articles in the next few days.

It's been 73 days (but 3 days enforced rest for a gig and bike repairs) and 4670 miles (7516 Kilometers) traveling the coast of Great Britain. An average of 67 miles (108 km) a day. I've also climbed 99639 meters ( 326900 ft) the equivalent of 92 times up Mt Snowdon or 11 times up Mt Everest. I'm staggered. There are probably a few other interesting stats I could work out in time, like, how many beaches?, lochs? and estuaries? I have seen.... and how many rainy days? (lots). I'm asked "what were the highlights?" but it is hard to say. The amazing thing is, I've been out in the open all day every day and every day has had it's own highlight and it's a great feeling. I am missing it already and just want to get out on my bike, but I have a lot of domestic stuff to catch up with in the next few weeks.

I've enjoyed doing the blog and thank everyone who has read it and given me messages of support throughout the tour. I wasn't able to upload any of my video clips on the tour so for the past few days I've been busy uploading and converting hundreds of clips and I still haven't finished. But I have quickly pieced together a preview which I'll attach to this message.. eventually

I'd also like to thank everyone who donated to Seeds for Africa. Besides the £500 or more, collected so far on www.justgiving/deanfrostbike.com I have also collected another £127.75 on route and at the gig on September 4th. Kellogg have also promised to match my total up to £500. So the total is over £1100 but I hope to collect some more after a plug in the local press and at work. If anyone would still like to donate, please visit the my justgiving website. £1000 pounds will pay for resourcing a new project to aid african children to become self sufficient in growing their own food.

Coming home today and Days 68 - 73

2010-09-15T11:38:00.003+01:00

Day 68 - Bike Repair.

damaged rear wheel rim

Yesterday afternoon I got to Manchester and dropped my bike into Edinburgh Cycles. As it’s a specialist wheel, there isn’t one it stock. It could be rebuilt but it needs to go off for inspection . Therefore, one is put on the lorry from their Edinburgh store for next day delivery. Today the staff do a great job and have sourced a stronger wheel and refitted by brake disc and rear cassette as soon as it arrives. A MASSIVE THANKYOU TO THE EDINBURGH CYCLES TEAM. As it’s mid afternoon there’s no point in travelling back to Aber this afternoon as I would only arrive at the end of the day and in time to find a B and B.

Before my enforced break I reckoned I had 4 more stages to go. But as I won’t be able to get a full day in on Saturday I reckon it will take 4 and a half and I’ll be arriving home late afternoon Wednesday 15th September. I’ll aim for 5pm. I’ll have an open house that evening for anyone who wants to pop in and welcome me home. Please bring your own booze and food as I won’t have time shop for any. I do have got a couple of bottles of bubbly and plonk on standby..

Day 69 - Aberystwyth - Abergwynant - 56 miles

Got the train back to Aber. In future I’ll have to get into the habit of booking my bike on day before. Arriva trains website has a “bike friendly” page, but they only have 2 places for bikes on their trains. This morning there were 8 bikes on the first train and 6 on the connecting train. So we got our hands slapped by the train manage. The journey got more interesting when a “Commando “themed hen party boarded the train, brandishing their plastic Kalashnikov’s and Bazookas. And were quickly pouring themselves a kaleidoscope of vodkas. Their commander also issued them with their special orders for the day . One whistle - stand to attention, two whistles - drop to the floor, three whistles down - down another vodka. Though I suspect the last two orders were likely to get confused as the day progressed.

Crossing the Dovey

The last part of train journey from Harlech to Aber follows the coast crossing the Mawddach and skirting both sides of the Dovey, offering one of the most scenic train journeys in the British Isles I should think. My bike route this afternoon virtually retraced this route. With a mid afternoon start I could only hope to reach Harlech by the end of day. But ringing ahead from Aberdovey Tourist Information there were no accommodation vacancies from Barmouth to Harlech and I had to settle for a YHA in Abergwynant, a good 5 miles from the coast.

Day 70- Abergwynant - Nefyn - 87 miles

Great start to the day, with great coastal roads and views of the Snowdonia on my right.Though I haven’t done it myself, I guess this must be the same bike route used for the Harlech Triathlon, which must make one of the best scenic triathlon routes in the country. Just as I was topping for lunch at Criccieth Beach my chain broke. Another major mechanical problem in 2 days, I’m worried. Will this mean another major delay. But it’s not a surprise. 4000 miles on one chain is a major achievement. Chain should probably be changed every 1000miles. I carry a spare chain, but if I change it then I also need to change my front cogs and rear cassette as they will be worn to accommodate my overstretched 4000mile chain. I manage to reconnect and repair the old chain and keep going, gingerly at first… another 50 miles. So I probably did a good job. But it could probably go again, especially if I put a lot of pressure on it climbing hills. Having said that I manage the long 20% ascent out of Hell’s Mouth Bay to Rhiw. Me and Jeff did this route a few years ago and it was tough on our 18 speed road bikes. Therefore I new it was coming,…but no problems today. The Lyn Pennisula is great riding and one of my favorites. I eventually ended up at Nefyn at 6:40pm . Again, I was hoping to go further, possibly Caernarfon, with the coast of Anglesey and some more to do tomorrow. But with only an hours good light left and Caernarfon 20 miles away this would be the last place I would be likely to find accommodation before nightfall.

Day 71 - Nefyn - Anglesey - Deganwy -108 miles

A big days riding and very challenging weather. Strong south westerly winds and constant rain till well into the afternoon. Quite any easy run from Nefyn to Caenarvon, Flat or downhill with the wind behind me. Anglesea was a different proposition, Being an island, I wasn’t going to include it originally. I have only briefly been there in the past for team building weekends or to pass through to get the ferry to Ireland . Oh… and a camping holiday. Wind was going to be the major factor today. Going west from Menai to Newborough along the south coast was tough. Then up the west coast to Rosnegr it was a constant battle keeping in a straight line, being buffeted by the cross winds. The roads on this side of the island are relatively flat and exposed, there’s just no protection. The coast at Rosnegr was wild. The wind and kite surfers were having a great time. I can see why this place is so popular. I think this would be the nearest quality surf to Manchester if I ever fancied taking to the sport. Once I headed across the north side the wind was behind me and I made good progress, but made a wrong turning and missed a bit of the northern coastal route. The visibility was still poor so I probably didn’t miss much. The final turn south was the greatest challenge coping with the hills and crosswinds heading back to the Menai Bridge. I had got a bit behind schedule, with the best part of 20 miles to get to Deganwy after 6:30. I had not alternative but to take the A55, all downhill and with a tailwind it was pretty brisk. No proper bike lanes at first, jjust keeping inside the white line. But from Penmaemawr, they now have a dedicated cycle path (NCR 5) running along the shore and inside the A55 and through the tunnels, which is tremendous.

I got lost finding my way out of Conwy on route Deganwy, where I would stay with cousin, Tracey and Malcolm. Luckily Malcolm came out to main road to guide me in. A big thanks to Tracey and Malcolm for great foods and hospitality. I’m sorry I might have kept you up late. Malcolm was probably half to blame digging out possible northern soul sounds , “Happy Feet” Robert Parker, Junior Walker’s “Tune Up” and “Wooley Booly”, that could make it into the YesSir set.

Day 72 - Deganwy - Hoylake - 72miles.

This morning the cyclometer has packed up. Not even a battery change can sort it out, the weather must have got to it. At the last check I had completed 4536 miles. I will have to calculate the final two days retrospectively when I reach home. From Deganwy it’s only a couple of miles to Llandudno. I’m looking forward to cycling around the Great Orme. But Malcolm reminds me that it is one way and you can’t approach it from the west. What the hell… I cycle into Llandudno, to the Pier and backtrack to take the coastal road. The hill isn’t that bad but the wind today is even more blustery, and against or across me. The hill walkers must think I’m bonkers. But it is worth it and by the time I get to the café at the top, there are blue skies, but the wind is still ferocious.

Who ate the sausages?

Once you get past the Llandudno and the Little Orme there is a great coastal cycle path for the next 20 miles to Prestatyn. Right along the promenades and sea walls and in the glorious sunshine this is a great spell of cycling. I must congratulate the Conwy Council on their great cycle routes, but they do need to improve the surfaces which are easily eroded by sand the sea water and very uneven in places.

From Prestatyn it all gets a bit industrial and boring. It is a bit of a faff getting to gthe blue bridge at Connah’s Quay and then finding a safe passage over to the South Wirral. Tonight I am heading for Hoylake and stop over with Helen, my colleague from Kellogg’s Occuaptional Health, and her family. Helen has advised me to take the Wirral way and avoid the traffic on the A540 (Chester way) . I eventually find it after tripping through small country villages such as Puddington and Burton. The Wirral Way is a great scenic route, flat and running right by the Dee Estuary. But this evening it is difficult against a driving head wind the surface is more suited to a mountain bike. So when I come a cross a locked gate, barring my way, I head back up to the A540 for the last 7 miles to Hoylake.

Helen has given great directions and I can’t miss her house on the sea front. A big thank you for a great welcome and hospitality. The wind continues to blow a gale outside. I have heard we are getting the tail end of a hurricane from the Gulf of Mexico, but I haven’t seen “The News“.

Day 73 - Last day - Hoylake - Home (Manchester) - 60 miles.

Helen’ mum gives me a great breakfast and send off. The wind is howling on the sea front and it’s behind me all the way. I take the sea front path all the way to New Brighton and for 10 miles I don’t need to peddle (that’s the truth) it is that windy. I’ve taken the Ferry across the Mersey and having a coffee and contemplating my final leg home along the Trans Pennine Trail.

I should be home by 5pm. If any friends want to pop by to 144 Greatstone Road, Chorlton this evening that would be great. Here I go.

Day 65 -67 Carmarthen - St David's - Aberystywth

2010-09-09T15:03:00.002+01:00

Day 65 - Carmarthen - St David’s - 96 miles

Pendine Sands - historical home of early land speed records

St Bride's bay - My photo doesn't do it justice

This morning I’ve got to avoid the A40, which is majorly busy and take a lengthy detour between the Tywi and Cywyn. By the time I’m passing through Laughaune, Pendine and Amroth it’s a glorious sunny day.. Laughaune (somewhere Dylan Thomas used to hang out) is invaded by watercolourists capturing the view of the castle, estuary and rolling hills. I did this route some years ago with friends Phil, Sandra and Johnny. I don’t remember it being this hilly. But unlike that trip, this time I make it down the Southern Peninsula of Pembroke. It’s great mainly traffic riding along single country lanes. And the same again once I’m passed Milford Haven, heading towards Marloes. Ascending out of Broadhaven I come across possibly the best coastal view I have seen all this trip. Looking out over the St Bride’s Bay to St David’s. I wish I could stay there for the rest of the day. It’s a bit tricky finding a route from Broadhaven to Newgale, there seems to be more lanes and placenta are marked on my map. Unfortunately it’s dark when I reach St David’s and I just miss the sunset. I am staying at my first YHA bunkhouse just off the White Sands road. A long day, but I’m making up for a couple of short stages over the last couple of days.

Day 66 - St David’s - Aberystwyth - 85 miles

It’s pouring with rain all the way to Fishguard, but the route is good .I managed to pick up the NCR 4 from right outside last night’s YHA Bunkhouse. Fish guard to Newport a short A487 and then it’s back to the NCR and country roads. Like Cornwall and Devon there’s a lot of single track lanes and steep descents and ascents as you visit small coastal villages (what you’d expect. But it’s all good fun, even in the rain. By Cardigan at mid afternoon the suns comes out .I’ve noticed my back wheel is wobbling . Well I notice that my steering is wobbling first. I have broken a spoke earlier and have tied the two adjacent spokes with a cable tie for rigidity. Now two spokes have ripped out of the wheel hub…yikes. I’ve carried two spare spokes throughout the trip but this is beyond repair. Besides I would need a bagful of tools to remove the brake disc and rear cassette. I nurse the bike the last 20 miles into Aberystwyth. A bit difficult with all the ups and downs and bendy roads. I had booked a YHA in Borth, but decide I must stay in Aber over night to give me more options in the morning. One; find a bike shop that has a replacement rear wheel, or two; get the train to Manchester and find a replacement their and fix at home and then come back out again the following morning.

I like Aber, it’s a backwater. It’s got some grand old buildings, esplanade and pier. But it’s almost deserted, this evening. It’s more of a seaside campus for the University. I first came down here in the earlier 80’s with YesSir to gig at the university and we used to go down a storm and were invited back many times.

YesSir @ Aber University

Day 67 - In the pits - Total so far = 4295 miles

4 more stages and 4 more days to go. But not today. Summit Cycles in Aber don’t stock a compatible rear wheel. The one on my Country Voyager is a bit unique as it has a break disc attached to the hub. Standard for mountain bikes but not road bikes. So I must come back to Manchester on the train and I have already contacted Edinburgh Cycles who can source a compatible wheel for this afternoon. Shame, I’m missing some good cycling

2010-09-06T23:03:00.001+01:00

Day 61 - Chepstow - Cardiff - 43 mile

I picked up the NCR4 for most of the morning and there are some good quiet country roads to cycle along on your way to Newport. To cross the River Usk you have two alternatives, either the busy new bridge or the original Victorian “Transporter Bridge”. The transporter is a lot more fun. I hadn’t realised that there are only two of these transporters operating in the British Isles. I used the other one getting over the Weir earlier in my trip. There is a 3rd redundant transporter in Warrington. Newport is very proud of it’s transporter, having restored it recently and they hold open days when they invite people to walk over the top of bridge. There is even a visitor centre. If I had tried to cross the day before I would have had a long wait. Apparently the “Incredible Hulk” had climbed onto the top of the bridge with Batman and Robin standing river side giving moral support. Yes… you guessed it, the Newport branch of “Fathers for Justice”.

Newport Transporter Bridge

Entering Cardiff wasn’t easy, approaching from the dock side and the state of the cycle lanes is chronic. A choice between sharing the roads with HGVs and tankers or clashing with overgrown thorn bushes and nettles. I had intended to ride to Swansea (40-50 miles on) but having made enquiries about getting my bike on the train to at Cardiff Central station I decided to take the next train while there was space available and get home to Manchester by early evening, with plenty of time to prepare for the gig on Saturday.

Day 62 - In Manchester for YesSir Gig

Couldn’t resist a 2 hour spin on my training bike. Riding a fully laden touring bike you get used to all that weight in the panniers, front and back, which act like stabilisers. The lightweight training bike felt very shakey and the immediate response of the break pads instead of discs took a bit of getting used to.

I bumped into Tim and Ryan around Lyme who were a little surprised. Not expecting me to be back home so soon. Ryan, I hope you had a great debut with Broughton Park RFC this weekend.

Great to see the rest of the band and a great performance and party atmosphere as always at the Lloyds. I’d also like to thank all who donated to Seeds for Africa. I meant to take some pics and video during the gig but in all the excitement I forgot I’d set it up.

Day 63 - Cardiff - Swansea - 57 miles

After late night and a late morning train back to Cardiff, and a food stop in Cardiff Bay, I didn’t really get started till 3:30. Cardiff bay was a bit disappointing to me. Just like any other harbour development in the country, with the usual suspects, Starbucks, Nando’s, in attendance. Made a meal out of the bay and then Barry. I should have ignored the NCR4 signs. The rest of the ride through the country lanes in “The Vale of Glamorgan” was good. And I had a close shave with a high speed cow charging down a single track lane towards me, being chased by an apologetic farmer. Of course the route from Port Talbot to Swansea is back to major A roads but the roadside cycle lanes are very adequate for the last 10miles into Swansea.

Day 64 - Swansea - Carmarthen - 61 miles

Not a great day. Heavy rain and southwesterly winds. Again the cycles lanes out of Swansea are very good and guide me down to Mumbles. From there I spend another 30 miles on the country lanes around the Gower Peninsula.

Port Eynon on a good day

This is a renowned scenic part of South Wales, with great beaches … on a good day. But with all the rain I don’t get my camera out once. I’m sodden all day long and intended to reach Pendine Sands or Tenby. After taking a late afternoon food stop and refuge at a Morrisons in Carmarthen I begin to cool off and feel a bit shaky getting back on the bike so I decide to get a B and B in town. I hope tomorrows weather isn’t as bad or I’ll start to fall behind with my plan to reach home by Sunday.

Don't forget YesSir Saturday 4th Lloyds,Chorlton

2010-09-03T00:09:00.000+01:00

I'll be back (for one night only) to perform with the band Saturday night at the Lloyds Hotel Chorlton, (Wilbraham Road). First Set 9:30. I'll be raising more funds for Seeds for Africa as well.

Please come down and join me and the band and bring your dancing shoes

Then I'll be wizzing back on the train to Swansea Sunday morning to resume my coastline tour.

3952 miles completed so far in 60 days. Averaging 66 miles a day

I reckon I'll be finished by gthe following weekend

Days 59- 60 Lynton - Brean - Chepstow

2010-09-02T23:53:00.000+01:00

Day 59 Lynton - Brean - 62 miles

Which way? Dean?

A great camp site and cafe breakfast at Sunny Lyn at Lynmouth. I knew this was going to be a tough start to the day, first there was the 25% descent into Lynmouth. My brakes wouldn't hold the bike and after one detour into an escape lane I decided to walk the bike down the hill, which is still difficult with a fully laden. Nexts came the 25% ascent of Countisbury Hill. I had been warned it was going to be tough and it was but after 800 yards it settled into 2 mile grind of 12% . The view of the cliffs are worth. I can't believe there are no road side barriers. But it would spoil the vie

Countisbury Cliffs

More steep hills in and out of Porlock, which is another hidden stunning bay and an intriguing toll road which passed through someones cottage.

Toll gate at Poorlock Weir

A last pasty stop at Minehead then the hills began to deminish as I left Exmoor and skirted arounfd the Brandon Hills, then Quantocks. after Wembdon it's a pacey downhill towards Brean and Weston. I chose to stop at Brean not knowing it's reputation as a mass of holiday and cararavan parks. But at least it was relatively easy to find a pitch for the night.

Day 60 Brean - Chepstow - 57 miles

Weston -super - Mare

Todays challenge was to find a safe route avoiding busy A roads and the M5, bypass Bristol and cross the River Avon and the Severn. Athlough Brean is a metropolis of caravan and holiday camps, inland there are cycle friendly country lanes that get you to Western-super-Mare. Getting to the Avon from Weston gets a bit tricky and you ha ve to criss cross the M5 using various cycle routes (26 & 41) to reach Avonmouth. Clevedon was a great place to take a break. In fact if you are ever stuck in a traffic jam on the M5 south of Bristol, then I recommend you turn of to Clevedon to chill out at a cafe on the sea front or take a stroll on their historic pier. It's the perfect place.

Clevedon Pier and Victorian Cafe

I was having a pretty relaxed days cycling until I got over to Avonmouth. The only road up to the Severn Bridge is the dock side A403 and it isn't pleasant. With charging motorists and HGV's and inconsistant cycle lanes. Eventually I refound the NCR 41 and the Severn Bridge, but the journey took longer than expected so I settled for a B and B in Chepstow. Tomorrow I plan to get close to Swansea and on Saturday I'll commute back to Chorlton for Saturday nights gig at The Lloyds Hotel in Chorlton.

Days 52 - 58 - Paignton - Bolberry - Polruan - Ruan Minor - St Ives - Padstow - Westward Ho! - Lynton

2010-09-01T10:05:00.000+01:00

Day 52 Paignton - Bolberry - 39 miles

I had originally planned a short ride today, thinking I might want to stick around Paignton. But this morning I have already had my fill and I set off to take a look around Brixham, another childhood holiday haunt. Again there are severe weather warnings for the south west and I am to expect heavy rain, flooding, head and cross winds and that is what I got with fog. Blackpool and Torcross beaches still looked impressive even in the extreme conditions. By the time I got to Dartmouth it was teeming down and I am as soaked as I can be. Strangely enough I still manage to keep warm even when I am totally drenched as long as I keep cycling, but standing on deck as I cross the River Dart on the ferry I begin to chill as the wind blows up the river. As we come ashore I join the other passengers as they dash to take shelter in the nearest tea rooms and cafes. They are all full but I eventually find one where I can warm myself up with a Devonshire Cream Tea. The staff come with a mop to clear up he the puddle of water I’ve left behind. No sign of Dave who has gone ahead to tonight’s campsite in Bolberry, near Hope Cove.. The conditions are so bad there that he has decided against cycling back to join me. Luckily the coastal route from Dartmouth is well signposted for NCR 2 (the national cycle route for the south coast). As I approach the ferry crossing from East Portleigh the road ahead is flooded. I take a chance that I can cycle through it, but it is deeper than my wheel hubs and I fall off and into the water. It makes no difference I am soaked already. Dave phones me, as he is waiting at the Ferry Inn in Salcombe on the other side of the estuary, having a pint. I eventually join him and decide to have one to.. Why not? But then I have another 5 miles to cycle to get to the campsite.

Dave knocks up a great meal and it is a welcome change to shelter in his camper van, provided I am prepared to listen to his recently acquired skills on the ukulele.

Day -53 Bolberry - Polruan -70 miles

Your typical Devon country lane

Dave puts a great breakfast together this morning. Thankfully, it’s not raining and the fog clears and we get a great view of Hope Cove. A big thank you to Fiona and Elaine who run the Bolberry farm campsite and make a generous donation to Seeds for Africa. Dave can only join me for the first part of the ride and then he must get back to the camper van and back home to his family for the Bank Holiday. It’s been great having Dave along. We have our last pasty stop together at Holbeton. Wembury Cove is a great little location to take a lunch break. I take a ferry from Plymouth Hoe to avoid the congestion of urban Plymouth and land at Cawsand and cross into Cornwall. The last 20 or so miles take me through a number of small harbour towns including the fabulously picturesque Looe which is teeming with tourists as the bank holiday weekend approaches.

Wembury Cove looking over to Drake Island

Day- 54 - Polruan - Ruan Minor (Nr The Lizard) - 51 miles

View from the southern headland at Megavissey

I had 3 estuaries to cross today. From Polruan to Fowey, St Mawes to Falmouth and Trebah to Helford.. It’s not cheating, it just keeps me to the coastline and today avoids lengthy detours inland along rivers that could amount to as much 50 or so miles today. But it takes up a lot of travel time waiting for ferries and unloading and loading the bags back on the bike. But I’m quite enjoying them as you get great views of some of Britains most beautiful estuaries, which they are today in brilliant sunshine. I’ll have to count up how many I’ve taken this tour, it’s about 15. The last crossing to Helford is the best. Trebah is a stunning little resort, a hidden gem. I’d never heard of it before. Carl Parker is coming to join me for a couple of days cycling. I’m probably as far as I could be from Manchester so I admire his commitment. And I am amazed that he gets down to the obscure location I have chosen for tonight’s campsite by 11pm.

Day 55- Ruan Minor - St Ives - 69 miles

At the Lizard

Last nights campsite was called the “Silver Sands” and it is actually at Gwendreath and another 2 miles to the beach at Ruan Minor, which is well worth checking out. Carl and I then rode down to “The Lizard” and it’s a staggering piece of English coastline. It also has a great little café overlooking the cliffs and it’s a great opportunity to get a Cornish pasty breakfast. Carl rides back to the campsite in order to take and leave his car at Helston, another 12 miles up the road., where he is going to leave it for the next 2 days. I take a coastal route from The Lizard. Mullion is a fun village to pass through, with it’s celebrity scarecrows adorning gardens and street corners in time for an annual bank holiday “Scarecrow Spectacular” . Here’s a few for you to “guess the celeb?”.

Celebs A

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Celeb C

Celeb D

Celeb E

Celeb F

I rendezvous with Carl and it’s a great days cycling. Once again it is sunshine all the way. On the way to Lands End we get a fish and chip stop for a beach pic nic at Marazion looking out to St Michaels’ Mount and then we pass through large and small harbour resorts, which means a lot of steep headland ascents. Mousehill being a great example. I take the predictable photo opportunity at Land’s End. Looks more like a theme park. Couldn’t even get a cup of tea or pasty

The north coast leaving Lands End hasn’t got as many coastal harbours but is equally as hilly. We manage 70 miles when we arrive at St Ives. But of course it is bank holiday weekend and full and we can’t get a campsite or B ’n’B . We reccy a secluded spot in an old disused quarry on the southern headland adjacent to the south beach and overlooking the Atlantic. We get a meal in town, a few local beers and a few provisions and go back to set up camp after dark. My first “wild camp” and very peaceful.

Day 56 - St Ives - Padstow - 54 miles

Another great days cycling and very hilly and a great route. So many great beaches along the route. I wanted to take a look at Newquay, but I can tell Carl isn’t impressed. It’s another childhood holiday reminisce for me. But it is just a surfers metropolis and choked with holiday makers. There are plenty of superior beaches all the way along the coast north of Newquay. This time I’ve booked ahead to secure a camp site in Padstow. We have planned a fish barbeque, but it is Sunday and late afternoon when we arrive at Padstowe. Padstowe is a reknowned Fishing Town but we are not likely to get any?. But luckily Rick Stein’s Deli on the harbour side is still open and later at the camp Carl rustles up a feast of barbequed sardines and chilli quid, on a disposable barby with mange tout, couscous and lentil salad, washed down with a couple of bottles of St Austell Ale. It’s the best meal I’ve had on the trip so far. So.. A big thanks Carl.

Carl at Padstow harbour

Day 57 - Padstow - Westwood Ho! - 72 miles

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After breakfast, it’s time to say goodbye to Carl as he cycles back 50 or so miles to Helston to pick up his car and drive home to Chorlton. It’s been a great 2 days cycling. I get the ferry over to Rock to pick out a coastal trail. It’s fantastic cycling again in the sun. There’s a cracking hill getting out of Boscastlle then get talking to Richard Bolley cycling his local training route. He’s preparing for a five tour, the Pyrenees Raid, later in the week. I tell him my plan to cycle to Widemouth and he’s doubtful I can make the descent with my pannier loaded bike. But then he changes his mind and decides to come with me and guide me around the route. He’s right these are exceptionally steep hills, 30%. The view approaching the decent, of the Widecombe cliffs is staggeringly beautiful (I’ve run out of superlatives). I’m on full brakes all the way down. The accent isn’t as bad as I imagined. Of course I’m puffing and it’s exceptional hot in the sheltered lanes. I’ve earned my pasty by the time I get to Bude. I eventually make it to Westward Ho! and the tonight’s B’n’B, for a bit of comfort and recharging. I had originally planned to reach Lynton, another 50 miles further on but I clearly got my sums wrong.

Day 58 - Westward Ho! - Lynton - 55 miles

Last night’s guest house run by George and Sue is immaculate and highly recommended but they close shop in 3 weeks and move back across the water to Instow which they say is far nicer. They also recommend the Tarka Trail , a cycle route that will take me around the Torrington and Taw Estuaries. It is a great little route along the waters edge for the most part and takes me in and out of Barnstable all the way to Braunton. It’s relatively falt and gives me a chance to spin my legs for the first part of day. Again there are some hidden gems along the coast in North Devon, Instow is nice and so is Croyde. Woolacombe has a major decent and hill climb. The beach is massive and packed with surfers. After Ifracoombe there are more climbs as I approach Exmoor. Particularly a slow 4 mile climb out of Coombs Martin. Brilliant sunshine and brilliant scenery and it sure feels great This is how I naively expected it would be for most of my bike tour before I started. Long may it last. The early evenings sure are getting cold, especially after a long descent into Lynton surrounded by forrest. Luckily I’m straight into a friendly riverside campsite, tent up in 10 minutes and I’m in the pub less than 100 yards away for a high calorie meal and pint of Devonshire Best Bitter. I’m regaining a taste for Real Ale since I’ve been in Devon and Cornwall. Perhaps I’ll kick the habit of the occasional trendy lager.

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Celeb b

2010-08-25T09:00:00.001+01:00

Day 44 - Southend - on - Sea - Whitstaple - 72 miles

Whitstaple Hrrbour

Last night’s Travelodge in the centre of town wasn’t such a great idea. It turned out to be only a few yards down the road from a nightclub and I was kept awake by the drunken, shouting, revellers on the street below. The scene outside being similar to that of CCTV footage on “Police, Camera, Action”. A mostly urban journey today as I crossed the Thames, trying to avoid A roads and find cycle paths and the NCR 1. On the Tilbury passenger ferry, I got talking to a group of cycle enthusiasts who were sending off a friend on the next leg of his JOGLE ride. The unique thing was he was riding a 3 gear Raleigh Roadster which he had bought and ridden every day since 1954, and the same clothes by the look of it, a rain coat and trousers tucked in his socks. A longer ride than anticipated and I was late getting to Whitstaple harbour and a rendezvous with Amanda Gerrard from the charity Seeds for Africa. After a call, Amanda and trustee Chris were happy to greet me and treat me to dinner and Chris and wife Jan later gave me a very comfortable bed for the night at their house in Margate.

Day 45 - Whitstaple - Kingsdown - 45 miles

Amanda sends me off on another days cycling

Chris droves me back into Whitstaple so I could pick up my route from where I finished the night before.
Amanda cycled down to a sea front café with me and treated me to veggie full English Breakfast, she new I’d appreciate that and I definitely did.. Today I intended to have an easy day so I started by riding back into Whitstable to take a look around the old town and harbour particularly. Before I left at midday I couldn’t resist fuelling up with some mixed seafood from “Wee Willy Winkles” sea food market and restaurant. Chris gave me his old copy of the OS map for East Kent outlining the Saxon Coastal Route. Today I can virtually ride along the coast line from Reculver to Ramsgate, taking in Herne Bay, Margate and Broadstairs and hundreds of beach chalets . It is also well signed as “ Viking Coastal Route” and NCR 15. From Ramsgate it’s the A256 to skirt around Sandwich before hitting the coast again at Deal. It is sunny most of the day and a fabulous ride. I’ve got a pitch at the Kingsdown International Campsite (it’s used for international scout jamborees I guess). It’s a massive field sloping down to cliffs and a beach with surrounding woods and there’s hardly any other campers to spoil my view. I can see the “White Cliffs of Dover “on the horizon and ships as big as islands gliding across the sea. Then I realise it can’t be Dover as that is 10 miles around the corner and I’m looking at the French Coastline only 30 miles away I guess.

Day 46 - Kingsdown - Sidley ( Bexhill) - 73 miles

Brighton Sea Front

Back on NCR 1 which takes me over the cliffs and into Dover. Some of he route actually travels through the “White Cliffs” national trust site and it is ridiculously difficult to traverse on a tour bike. I have a brief walk along the cliffs and it’s worth the look. Down into Dover and it is busy with European tourists. At the Harbour I spot a group of swimmers. They are not attempting a channel crossing but tapering their training with sessions in the harbour. There is a Japanese team there and a women going for her 8th successful crossing. It’s hilly over the North downs but there is a descent cycle path provided along side the busy A20 to Folkstone. After Hythe it is all flat cycling across Romney Marsh and a cycle path to take me from Jury’s gap into Rye. There’s a really steep climb up Battery Hill to get to Hastings. I try to find a short cut down smaller country roads through Fairlight to get off the A259, but there isn’t a through road. I end going up the same hill 3 times from directions. How stupid?

Day 47 - Sidley - Felpham (Bognor Regis) - 68 miles

The early part of the journey was pleasant enough through Eastbourne along the sea front, hen it is mostly along the A259 along the coastline. There is are ample cycle lanes along the prom at Brighton, which are well used by the local cyclists but abused by pedestrians who don’t appear to understand that it may be dangerous to walk along them. From Brighton to Shoreham I get strike up a conversation with Chris, commuting home, about our common interests, he is a keen cyclist and ex triathlete. The past few days I have been suffering from tendonitis in my left achilles and I think it is the result of the 100 miler I did where I sped the last 20 miles into Maplethorpe. Today it started to bruise and swell up. I could do with getting some ice on it tonight. Luckily tonight I am staying with Allison and Radford who are friends of Richard our drummer. Rad has given me good directions to their house in Felpham, but better still Allison rides out to meet me and escort me home and it's great to be met by a friendly at the end of a hard days cycling. Allison and Rad are great company and arrange a meal out with friends Ally and Tim. Rad and Tim tell me about a the “South Downs Way” a tough trail ride in this area that they did a couple of years ago. Thanks for a great night.

Mistand rain over Hanover Point

Day 48 - Felpham - Totland (Isle of White) - 65 miles

Ally and Rad give me a bit of a send off in the morning. I decided to avoid the problem of the busy A roads and the urbanisation of Portsmouth and Southampton and getting around Southampton water by hopping over to the Isle of White and cycling it’s south coast. So I take the ferry from Southsand to Ryde on the Hovercraft. Rad and Tim the previous evening had suggested this might not be such an easy alternative. It is quite very hilly on this chalk island, and the climb out of Ventnor is quite tough. Once you’re on the high cliffs of the south coast you are quite exposed to the prevailing south westerly’s and there is thick mist. The final run over to Hanover Point is something else and I can see my winding route over the top of the white cliffs ahead of me is not going to be easy. Down in the bay below the surfers are out in force, enjoying the extreme surf conditions in the near darkness. Right on top of the cliffs I can’t believe that there are no road side barriers and I am relieved to get over it and into Freshwater. I was a hard end to the day. One thing I have found on this trip is to always be prepared for a hard climb at the end of day (and the beginning). I find a great little campsite at Totland and treat my self to a “billy feast”. including almost a whole bar of Green and Blacks 75%.

Day 49 - Totland - Weymouth - 72 miles

Mad busy in Bournemouth

A short journey from the campsite to the ferry from Yarmouth to Lymington on the mainland and a last look at the boat traffic in the Solent. It’s amazing just how many boats there are in this part of the world and that there aren’t more collisions with smalls yachts dancing in front of the ferry routes. Loads of traffic and slow progress as I approached Bournemouth. It was the Airshow, deferred from the previous day because of bad weather. I should have known they hadn’t just come to look at a rainy day in Bournemouth. I made the mistake of using the esplanade and had to walk my bike through the crowds, it was heaving. I eventually made it to Sandbanks (south of Poole) for my second ferry crossing of the day over to Studland on the Isle of Purbeck. (again not a real island, but perhaps it had been one in the past). Chatted with a young cyclist who was on a training ride of “the Purbecks”. She told me of a friend who was presently trying to break the JOGLE record, both ways in 3 days. It sounds impossible. I’ll have to check that out. Clocked a number of cyclists out in the Purbecks and I was just about to find out how challenging a ride it is. Not long into the ride and it is pouring with rain and there is a heavy mist surrounding me I start climbing the Purbeck Hills and it’s hard work. With such bad visibility I don’t get a chance to appreciate the full splendour of this area and the Ludlows. I get into Weymouth like the proverbial “drowned rat” but luckily find a B and B fairly quickly. I phone, Paul Tresise who is kindly putting me up tomorrow night and he tells me there is a severe weather warning for this area tonight. It looks like my bad luck with the weather has no end.

Day 50 Weymouth - Exmouth

Lyme Regis

A wet and windy day as forecast. Therefore I didn’t bother going to Portland to check out the view of Chesil (that 15mile strip of offshore beach running from Portland to Abbotsbury) because there wouldn’t have been one. Climbing hills all day along the Jurassic Coast. The first hill out of Weymouth over to Langton Herring was a lung burner against a strong headwind. Even the camper vans were struggling to get up it, but at the top there was a great view down to Chesil Beach. Then it was hill after hill as I climbed out of Bridport, Lyme Regis, Seaton, Sidmouth and Budleigh Salterton and a few others. It was a long day and only 58 miles covered and I was late for the 18:15 ferry at Exmouth to Starcross and my rendezvous with Paul and Dave Deville who had travelled down from Manchester to join me for the next few days cycling.

Eventually I got there an hour later and Paul picked me up at Exmouth Sea Front. Paul arranged a surprise meal out at the No.7, fish restaurant at Torquay with his partner Jane and son Jo, and Dave . He even arranged a quay side firework display as I arrived into town (It was the Torquay Regatta).

After 50 days cycling I have covered 3400 miles. An average of 68 miles a day

Day 51 Dawlish - Paignton 25miles

Braking Wind Cycles Dawlish

Paul took the day off work to join me and Dave on this short leg. Dave has come down in s camper van so he parks up in Paignton and cycles toward Teignmouth in order to intercept us and ride back again into Paignton. I’ve insisted on cycling from Bishops Leighton (Paul’s home) to Dawlish in order to pick up the coastal route from the opposite side of the River Ex to finished the day before. We take a direct route over Little Heaton, a very steep hill to test us before we’ve had chance to digest our breakfast. My legs are a bit stiff from yesterday and I’m glad today is a sort ride as there are more steep little hills. Dawlish and Teignmouth and Sheldon are nice but I’ve insisted on coming to Paignton out of nostalgia as I used to holiday here as a child. But on arrival it is a bit disappointment and a bit scruffy, but the pasties are good.

I say farewell to Paul and thanks for putting me up and feeding me After 20 years it has been a brief visit, but I promise to not leave it so long in the future. We have a musical collaboration to pursue. Paul must have enjoyed today’s cycle trip (despite not being able to find his cycle shorts) as he insisted on cycling back home despite being offered a lift.

Days 40 - 43 - Clenchwarden - Cromer - Warbleswick - Brightlingsea - Southend - on -Sea.

2010-08-18T00:35:00.001+01:00

Day 40 - Clenchwarden - Cromer - 60 miles

A very wet morning, and I take the NCN route 1, this time up the east side of “The Wash”. This avoids the busy A149 to Hunstanton but takes you further inland and through Sandringham. You can tell there’s royalty around here because the roads suddenly get a lot wider,.As wide as “The Mall”. I pull over to the park gates and have a peek, but Sandringham House it hidden by woods and I can’t be bothered paying just to get a better look. Arriving at Hunstanton the heavy rain is replaced by sunshine, but it is very windy . This a busy seaside town, a mix of seaside kitsch and old town and pleasant enough. Just out of town there are miles of beach and dunes and perfect conditions for the wind surfers.

The ride out along the north Norfolk coastal roads are very scenic passing through lots of picture postcard villages on my way to Cromer. Yes, this is a 40 mile gold star ride. I stop off at Wells - Next - The - Sea, which is a bustling traditional seaside town, with lots of character.. And everybody’s “crabbin” , net and bucket in hand. It appears to be the favourite holiday past time all along this coastline. Someone could have a hit again with a re-mix of that Bob Marley reggae classic, “Oow yeah…We’re crabbin’…”
There’s a lot of bird watching too, over the marshes. Sheringham isn’t a bad little town either with it’s old style railway station. I stay at the White Horse in Cromer and later I get speaking to Barry, Bob and Guy having dinner, who have seen me securing my bike in the back yard. It turns out they cycled the same route as me today. They cycled up from Essex the previous day. They have also previously cycled the route I plan to do in 2 days time and they give me some advice about booking the ferries from Bawdsy to Felixstowe and Felixstowe to Harwich, this will save me a possible 35 miles cycling around the estuaries.. We also discuss the virtues of Swaube Marathon tyres and how the Continental our Rides just don’t measure up. I haven’t had a problem since changing mine in Edinburgh (watch this I’ll get a puncture tomorrow)..

Day 41 - Cromer - Walberswick - 74 miles

A great room, night’s sleep and breakfast at the “White Horse” and Ann the landlady kindly gives a donation. Again the heavy rain comes as forecast but the rain clouds are soon blown away by the coastal winds and it’s glorious sunshine all the way along the rest of the Norfolk coastline. 40 miles of mainly small lanes that run close to the dunes and sea defences, where you see settlements of various shapes ans sizes of beach chalets. I quite like the romany carvan design. Occasionally there are little seaside resorts, where there are flood gates and access to the shoreline, such as Sea Pelling. Just before Great Yarmouth I make a little detour to California. Yes California, it’s a tiny sea side resort and a bit tacky. I store and an amusement arcade of course. Caistor - on - Sea is nicer and that’s my 2nd stop of the day. Having double egg and chips in a café on the dunes. Great Yarmouth, is your traditional big seaside resort and busy, it’s probably a bit classier than Skegness or Blackpool. Today I’m just trying to find a way out of it, and it’s back to a busy A road, the A12. I call in at Lowestoft tourist information to book a campsite. They are very friendly and helpful and interested in my journey and cycle touring. They recommend a book called “Cold beer and Crocodiles” by an american who cycled the coast of Australia. “Now that’s amazing”.

Southwold was by first choice of campsite, but all I get is an answer phone message stating they are fully booked till the end of August. Walberswick is literally a stones throw away across the river. But my map doe not show any crossing, therefore I’ve an extra 10 miles on my journey. When I arrive it is a little stunner, a rag tag collection of tents and beach chalets huddled together in the dunes less than 100 yards from the seafront.

Day 42 - Walberswick - Brightlingsea - 70 miles

I took a walk along the beach a Walberswick to wake up. A great long beach, it’s just a shame that you can see the dome of Sizewell Power Station way off in the distance. Jonathan, my next door camp neighbour came over to enquire about my travelling. He’d like to try cycle touring with his wife. Perhaps they could share a tandem. I saw quite a number of tandem cyclist in Scotland doing the JOGLE. And I did speak to a team of 4 guys riding 2 tandems, from Stonehaven. It must be difficult,. You must need a lot of experience together and trust , particularly with some of the hazards you meet on a long tours like the JOGLE. I wondered whether I could ride with a tandem partner and I quickly came to the conclusion that I couldn’t. (Who would be your ideal tandem partner?) Then as quick as a flash I thought of the ideal partner, and she could sit at the front. (answer at the bottom of the page)

Seeing I had bypassed Southwold the day before I made some enquiries and eventually found a pedestrian bridge to take me back over the River Blyth. It’s a shame I didn’t know about it the night before as it could have saved me some journey time. Southwold was well worth the visit. It’s a very traditional sea side town, yet different. The highlight is the Pier and the “Under the Pier Show” , a selection of unique bizarre slot machines and simulated rides. My favourites were “Walk the Dog”. You are on a treadmill holding a replica dog by a lead. “The Mobility Master Class, Train for Your Future Today” is a simulator where you have to guide your zimmer frame across a busy roundabout. Jean spots me and my bike and wants to know what I’m up to. She introduces me to her husband John. Both did the JOGLE together in “89“. They have also have a tandem.

This morning I was able pick up a 35 mile route through country lanes, mainly using NCR 30, to make it just in time for the departure of the Bawdsley Ferry over to Felixstowe. It’s then a brief cycle to the. next ferry crossing from Felixstowe to Harwich but a hour wait for the next departure from the historic Languard. When I get there I am immediately befriended by Peter Robinson who has spotted bike and buys me a tea and biscuits. Peter enjoys his cycling and charity work and combines the two by running Bike Active, amongst other things, providing regular guided cycling sessions for people with learning disabilities.

(Answer: Victoria Pendleton)

Day 43 - Brightlinsea - Southend - on - Sea - 77 miles

Old schooner - Malton Harbour

Brightlingsea has an important history, as one of 5 “Cinque” ports that provided “services for the monarch” Edward the Confessor . Usually a trip over the channel to vist France then under English rule.. Today waiting for my 11am ferry across to Mersea Island it seems hard to imagine. the harbour is so quiet. It seems more like a sleepy Sunday rather than a Monday workday morning. A chance to nip into the Harbourmaster’s office, which doubles up as the Tourist Information Centre. I rang the ferry to book my trip and it is the first boat I see approach the harbour that morning. I am the only passenger and it’s a choppy sea and bumpy ride but the view of the Colne Estuary is fabulous. Even though it’s only 10 minutes long, this is my favourite ferry boat ride of the tour so far. And it saves me 20 miles of cycling around the estuary. Tony Williams and Jasmine are curious about my journey and generous in giving my fare to Seeds for Africa. Tony tells me that this estuary was once a land bridge to Europe and prehistoric bones and particularly mammoth ivory are regularly trawled from the sea bed. They drop me on the steep shell beach on East Mersea. I feel like “Robinson Crusoe” pushing the bike up the beach. The view back to the estuary is staggering. Eventually I locate a path and then the country roads that leads me off the island. There’s a causeway on the other side and then it’s mainly winding country roads to Malton, another historic estuary port, for a pic nic lunch. The park overlooking “the harbour” is quite busy with tourists considering it’s such a grey and blustery day and I need the arms of an octopus to hang onto all my lunch items on the pic nic bench.

It’s quite country roads most of the way to South Woodham Ferrer. Until rush hour that is, and then it becomes difficult to find a safe passage out and on to Southend on Sea. At least there is a decent cycle lane for the last half dozen miles into Southend, which seems as big a place as Manchester. As there are no touring campsites to be found , I’m in a Travelodge for a bit of security, and it was relatively easy to locate. I also have to be up bright and early to make the Tilbury pedestrian ferry in the morning.

2010-08-13T11:15:00.000+01:00

Day 36 - Saltburn - Robin Hoods Bay - 25 miles

Cliff lift and pier at Saltburn on Sea

Ged at last nights B'n'B ( incidently a guitarist and blues fan) gave me the low down on Saltburn. Up until early Victorian era a hamlet reknown for it's smuggling past. Henry Pease an industrialist reponsible for developing most of Middlesborough visited the place and wanted to develop it as his seaside holiday haven. Complete with a large hotel (Zetland) and a railway line to take him there, with it's own platform. It also has one of the earliest examples of a water powered funicular cliff side lift car and Victorian pier.
lasat night I slept too well. there was an interesting program on the origins of cycle camping, the precurser of recreational camping in this country, but I fell asleep during it.

From Salt burn you enter the West Riding of Yorkshire so this mornings ride was pretty hilly but good fun. I‘ve only cycled this part of Britain once before,.2 years ago I did the “Ryedale Rumble” a 112mile “cycle sportif “ on my race bike and some of the hills were pretty difficult, but fabulous countryside. Before entering Sandsend ahead of Grimsby, there was ample warning of a 1 in 4 descent at Lythe Bank. My brakes had been playing up, and this was a scary “white knuckle” descent . Never again. I now tightened up my break pads. Whitby was crowded and I didn‘t stay too long. More ascending required and out on the A171 and speeding traffic and inconsistent cycle lanes. I met a group of Dutch cycle tourists, .taking a coastal tour from Grimsby to Newcastle who had just taken the coastal cycle path from Scarborough through Robins Hoods Bay. Despite being hilly and rough it was a good scenic ride. Alas another downpour and on entering the bay I decided to call it a day and camp after only 25 miles.

Whitby Harbour

Day 37 - Robin Hoods Bay - Hollym - 90 miles

Again very hilly mornings cycling out of RHB and Scarborough. Scarborough packed with holiday makers, and impression is the British Holiday Trade is pretty healthy this year. From Filey I could sea the impressive chalk cliff coastline of Flamborough Head. Getting of the A165 and reaching the head that afternoon was the highlight of the day . Sheltered bays and cliff caves, an impressive piece of coastline. Skipped past Bridlington and Skipsea. A pit stop and ice cream at Hornsea, with it’s monument, marking the end of the Trans Pennine Trail. It had crossed my mind that I could head down the trail to Manchester and get a night back at home. Do a figure of 8 route and head down the Welsh Coast. No… this would disrupt my plans to meet people enroute. I was looking for somewhere to camp, when I reached Withersea. Only Holiday Camps and the camp sites taking tents looked like gypsy encampments. Not a place I want to go back to. Eventually, a found a small Camping Club site that would let me pitch.

Day 38 - Hollym - Mablethorpe - 105 miles

North Sea Coast Spurn Head

Today I took a major unplanned detour of an extra 25 miles to visit Spurn Head. I am glad I did as this is a very unique location. A slither of land separating the Irish Sea and the Humber Estuary. You’d think with one good storm and it just might disappear. In parts the east and west coast seem only 50 yards apart. Quite a tricky path, concrete bricks embedded in the sand, gives grip for car tyres but not for bikes. Right at the tip is a base for the Coastguard and lifeboats and it’s a national nature reserve and bird sanctuary.

The roads now, are all pretty flat straight roads through golden wheat fields, but the route east to Hull start to get monotonous. It’s exposed and it’s all against a headwind. The journey to the Humber Bridge seems to take ages and Hull is a very big and busy city and the traffic is gridlocked. I eventually find a route to the Bridge via Hessle . Heading to Grimsby I take a mazey route trying to avoid the A160 but it’s not always possible. Out of Cleethorpes it is a lot easier as I enter the North Lincolnshire countryside, flat twisting roads through fields of wheat, and the sounds of the combiners at work. It’s a great pacey run through occasional small villages as I make by way to Mablethorpe and a campsite on the outskirts of town.
Day 39 - Mablethorpe - Clenchwarden - 83 miles

Mablethorpe is a mini Skegness, beach front, amusement arcades and bingo for breakfast. It’s sunny and you can cycle along the promenade and beach front for a few miles which is very pleasant. Traffic jams entering Ingoldmells and Skegness, which are heaving with holiday makers. I have never been to Skegness and will probably never come again if I can help it. But it is noisey and fascinating for a short spell. They do have good beaches on this coastline but it is odd to be staring out at a wind farms in the sea.

The A52 out of Skegness to Boston is notoriously, dangerous and it pours down with rain. At Wrangle I manage to get onto the country roads around the north west of “The Wash”. After Boston I do the same again to take me to Forsdyke and then on to Long Sutton avoiding the A17 and speeding trucks. It a is a maze of roads that twist through this flat Lincolnshire farmland, which appears to grow everything, but adds quite a few miles to today’s journey. There are no campsites or accommodation around these parts and it’s overcast and getting dark early. 3 miles outside King’s Lynn, at Clenchwarden and I spot a pub "The Victory" and a bed for the night. Steve the landlord has an empty house. I come down for last orders and a pint of Elwood's "Cambridge" and join three of the local lads and listen to there tales of fishing, for dab, shrimp, welks etc.

Days 30 - 35, Aberdeen - Carnousti - Bruntisland - Coldinham - Alnwick - Whitburn - Saltburn

2010-08-09T13:32:00.000+01:00

Day 30 - Aberdeen - Carnousti - 65 miles

Rather than mooch around Aberdeen City, wonder at the old buildings and get enticed into a few shops I followed signs for the “Fun Beach”. I never thought that Aberdeen would have a beach and it was a bit of fun and a pleasant place to be on a sunny morning. It was a busy A roads and hoping on and off cycle lanes to get out of the city. I tried to keep to the small roads around Cove bay., but had to go back onto the A90, though I did find a coastal round to take me into Stonehaven for a pic nic lunch on the beach. Back on the A92 through to Montrose, then back to coastal roada to take me Arbroath (all familiar names from listening to Scottish football results. I was talking snaps at overlooking Lunan bay, Chris a out training on his folding bike stopped for a chat. No ordinary folding bike, it had suspension and actually split rather than folded in half.(if only I could remember the name), He had used it for a 100 miles a day JOGLE, and was thinking of a 30 days tour over the Atlas mountains of Morocco. He reckoned that I wouldn’t get to Arbroath in time for any “ Smokies” and he was right, the harbour side shops had shut by 5pm. It’s best to get them by around 11am each morning. Arrived at Carnousti and a great little campsite, spotless, well run, friendly and a fiver.
Day 31 - Carnousti - St Andrews - Bran island - 90 miles

Carnousti, another golfing town, but it has a nice beach and dunes and shoreline path. There was a coastal path most of the way into Broughty Ferry with a castle, harbour and great views over the Firth of Tay. I didn’t linger in Dundee and it was an easy city to negotiate. You have to take a lift to get your bike up to the cycle lane that runs down the middle of the traffic. On the other side is a grassy hillside where you get refreshments and take in view back over the Tay to the city of Dundee. I stick to a national cycle route, on my way to St Andrews and this tales me through Tentsmuir forest. This route is unsuitable for road or touring bikes I quickly find as I skid and fall off on the sand.. But it’s an interesting ride through the dense forrest with occasional glimpse at the coastline at Tentsmuir Point. St Andrews is a grand old town, teaming with tourists and probably mainly golf tourists on a pilgramage to golfing “Mecca” . Lots of old building and history, it reminds me of Oxford. A great place to stop for lunch, but no chance of ice cream from the Jannettas which had been highly recommended (Nick C), I’m not queuing. I inteand tyo get as near to Edinburgh as possible by the end of the day. On the way I meet Nelson, Tess, Ian & Linda , they spotted me in St Andrews, I wave to them at Anstruther and then they catch up for a chat stop at Pittenween Harbour. Nelson and Ian are keen cycle tourers, Nelson tells me about high altitude routes from his home in Denver, Colorado. Ian has done the JOGLE. We discussed the North Sea Cycle route, a circular route of about 4000 miles, that follows the NC route 1 from JOG to Ipwich, then with ferrys, the coasts of Belgium, Holland, Denmark, Norway, over to Shetland. Carry on and eventually find a camping site at Levens, but there are charging £20 pounds and I don’t fancy it. Eventually I find one at Bruntisland in the dark after .a 90 mile day.

Day 32 - Bruntisland - Drone Hill (near Coldingham)

Up very early. I need to call into Edinburgh and Edinburgh Bicycle Co-op (they made my bike). After negotiating the Forth Bridge and the confusing cycle route signs, I also find that there are more than route 1’s into Edinburgh and should have just stuck to the coast and my instincts. Eventually I come into Edinburgh at Haymarket station, but the route is diverted by a construction site and I pick up a double puncture. I limp the city which is “chocker” with tourists for the festival. Edinburgh Bicycle Co-operative is not easy to find. I ditch my Continental tour ride tyres which for me do not have “puncture protection” ( also picked up a double the day before) and replace them with Schwabe Marathon, with a “Plus” on the front as they only have one in stock. I get 4 inner tubes, replace a cycle top and base layer and also get some front pannier bags to redistribute the weight on the bike. I can’t find my favourite chocolate shop on the “Royal Mile” and have to settle for a snack at the Holyrood Palace. Chatting to a cyclist commuting from work, he rcommends “Mackeys Chippy”a t Eyemouth, but it‘s 50 miles away and I probably won‘t make. A downpour is followed by a bright sunny evening and a great pacey ride out through Mussel borough, and North Berwick, voted prettiest town in Scotland last year and it is nice, but I don’t find a camp pitch till each Drone Hill another 90 mile ride.

Day 33 - Drone Hill - Alwick

Bob the campsite manager calls me over for a cup of before I get started .. The hill has a few mounds and around the place and there are a network of underground bunkers as this was an early warning site built for WW1. I call at St Abbs, the popular diving location and shelter from the rain. At Eyemouth I get my lunchtime fish and chips at Mackay’s. The locals are talking about this morning’s tragedy of a 15 year boy out fishing who’s boat was been struck by a ferry. All the boats are out from the harbour. On leaving Eyemouth, Ian concerns about cycling the A1 are justified, there are few cycle lanes and sometimes no inner white lines on the dual carriageway. I get to “the Border” and stop at the snack van to have a ceremonial cup of English tea and “Cross of St George Mars Bar”. Pete at the snack van tells me of all the sights his seen crossing the border, rickshaws, men on stilts, film cres from “Top Gear” and “Coast”. he also tells me of a coatal path route out of Berwick on Tweed to avoid the A1. I eventually take this route (again it‘s marked NCR 1), great cliff top scenery but a bone “boneshaker” and sometimes not even a path, it’s ludicrous to call this a cycle route. Nice views but it adds another hour on my journey time. I pass through bam burgh and Seahouses but it is raining. I head inland today as I am staying with Jo & Jim Foggin, friends of my Auntie Pat. They kindly feed me, give me a bed for the night a few beers and a wash and dry my kit.

Day 34 - Alnwick - Lizard Point (Whitburn) - 63 miles

I am very grateful to Jo & Jim for there hospitality and a couple of lucozade botlles to keep me going this morning. Alnwick historic town square is beginning to bustle, with a market and a stage set up for their international music festival, but I I’m to early for a performance. The local tourist information centre can’t give me camp site for the next county, the English tourist board could learn from the Scottish where this would not be a problem. At least I can confirm that the Tyne (pedestrian )Ferry is operating. I am meeting Lynne (sister) and Peter (brother in law) today, but just where depends on how far I get and campsite availability.. I start at Cresta and work south through a mixture country and A Roads. At Almouth I am stopped by a couple (forgot their names) who are cycling the coast in stages but they started in Portugal. There are having a day off. Then I notice they have a big dog and yes they tow him along in a bike trailer. By the time I get to Whitley Bay, North Shields and via the ferry to South Shields there are good cycle lanes all along the front. I wait in a café/ice cream parlour for news of Lynne and Peter. We originally planned to meert at Hartlepool for the “Tall Ships races” but it is packed and there are no camp sites. It would take an hour and a half for me to get there so they head my way. Local campsites are reluctant to take tents. We eventually find one at Lizard Point (Whitburn) they feed me and have even brought a pillow for me to sleep with. I’ve been using a rolled up fleece so far.

Day 35 - Whit burn - Saltburn - 55 miles

At breakfast I meet Des Denning, from Ireland but living in Germany from where he embarked on the North Sea Cycle Tour. I heard about Des and was pleased to catch up with him. He rides a Koto Myoto, porting a Garmin GPS, and more importantly a means of powering it, a “current converter”. which he picked up in Germany. None of the Manchester bike shops I frequent seem to know about these things. I want one. Des gives me the details and I plan to order one after my tour. We promise to keep in touch and exchange blog details. But I am likely get a get away from Des as I plan to do more daily milage.

The idea was to have a short day, today and have a bit of a rest just past Hartlepool and catch up with Lynne and Peter and see the “Tall Ships”. But it’s packed and nearby Seaton Carew doesn’t have any accommodation. Lynne and Peter are still behind so I press on along the coast. It gets a lot more industrial as I negotiate the Teeside Estuary. Luckily some other cyclists direct me to the “Transporter” ferry over the Tee, a suspended platform that travels back and forth over the river. I pass Redcar and arrange to meet L & P at Saltburn. I am still struggling to find accommodation, the camp site doesn’t take tents and their aren’t the B and B’s around that the locals say there are. I am all for pressing on for Whitby, when I happen to spot a sign in a window and a place for the night. Saltburn is an intriguing place, great beach, bay and impressive headland, grand old Georgian buildings, a funicular railway and impressive pier, which is a great vantage point for observing the bay, headland and sunset after our… you guessed it, fish and chips.

Days - 26 - 29

2010-08-03T10:10:00.002+01:00

At Day 29 I've completed about 1950 miles. I am about a day or two down on my total, probably averaging about 67 miles a day. I'm likely to catch up on the milage as it gets relatively flatter after the "highlands", but I am also likely to to do extra milage exploring. I can't seem to get any photos uploaded today. So will try again in a couple of days. I can't get any video clips loaded no matter which way I try. Today I'll get to the other side of Dundee and the next day I might have a stop of in Edinburgh, for the "le paradis du chocolat" and the bike shop.
I'm also looking for idea's for "Billycan Meals" . I'm short on ideas. I only have one billy can and a small stove to cook with. No plate. So far I use either bake beans of chunky vegetable soup as a base and add tinned fish, and fresh veg, spinach,baby sweet corn etc. I tried a spinach and rocotta canaletti but that was a bit fiddly. If you have any suggestions? They have to be vegatarian or pescetarian.Tracey P wrote in with an "Iguana" bushtucker dish. I'm always willing to try something novel for the first time, but I haven't spotted any Iguana's out here.

Day 26 - Wick - Dornoch - 67 miles

This day was a bit of a washout. Torrential rain and coping with the speeding motorists on A90 and A9. Most people doing the Lands End/John O Groats would agree, these are unpleasant roads. By 4pm I was sheltering in a museum in Helmsdale and thinking of calling it a day (just for that day). I got back in the saddle and pressed on. The roads were now flatter and I could crack on at a faster pace. I had intended to camp at Tain (at 70 miles). I decided to take a quick look at Dornoch on the way and it looked quaint and interesting and had a camp site and beach, so I couldn’t resist stopping over.

Day 27 - Dornoch - Cromarty - Nairn - 86 miles

I took a look at Dornoch’s beach in the morning and it was a long swathe of open golden dunes. Inviting me to take a 10 minute barefoot jog. Feeling good I then had a look around Dornoch, a pretty little village. I couldn’t resist a second breakfast and sat on the village green opposite the Castle/Hotel. I wouldn’t mind returning some day and making this a holiday base. Tain, down the road, was also just as appealing. From Tain I was going to take the short ferry to Cromarty, over the neck of the Cromarty Firth, but when I checked with Tourist Information, it wasn’t running. This meant a 35 mile detour around Cromarty Firth to get there. B*****!. I couldn’t miss out Cromarty. Before this trip, Nick (Clarke) suggested that this was one of those destinations you had to see if you got the chance. Having been fascinated by it’s mention on the BBC Radio shipping forecasts. It lies at the northern tip of the “Black Isle” (not an island but a peninsula). It was a relief to leave the A roads and cross to the isle. The 35 miles around the isle is another gold star ride. Flanked by golden fields of barley and occasional little villages such as Jemimaville. Cromarty was worth the extra time and effort, very laid back and an assortment of small lanes and red stone buildings. In total contrast on continuing south, I then had to tackle a bypass at Inverness. Swarming traffic, it took me 15 minutes to cross a roundabout. I later realised that I was just down stream from a retail park and this was Saturday evening. Then on to Nairn and the A96. I quickly escaped onto the coastal B roads, but in doing so missed the signs for the nights camp site and ended up at a noisy holiday camp, luckily there was no room for another tent. Eventually I arrived late, at a great little camp in nearby woods.

Day 28 - Nairn - Portsoy- 70 miles

It was blooming cold, it felt like winter and an almost permanent dusk. I kept to the coastal route. Since JOG I have mainly followed the National Cycle Route 1. This was also supposed to be the Malt Whiskey Trail, but I only came across one distillery. First stop was Burghead, the Pict capital of Scotland. On the headland lies the remains site of a Pict fortress. The curator, Jim was fascinating. The fort was later held by Vikings. Pict engravings and Viking, Roman and Byzantine artefacts have all been found there or in the surrounding area. The town is also famous for the yearly “Burning of the Clavie”, every “Julian” New Year, 11th January, a barrel of burning staves is carried through the town to the fortress, at New Year. It is then left to burn out and fall of the ramparts onto the rocks below. If you can collect a piece of the remaining embers it is supposed to bring you good luck. 3 “Glasgow Vikings” were also looking around, they’d been to a local Viking festival that weekend (dressed as Vikings). A lot of the of harbour towns along the Moray Firth such as Burghead were redeveloped in the late 19th century to house the families after “the clearanaces“. They are good solid stone built houses and are the predominant form of housing around today. I reached Fochaber, just as the rain came. Baxter’s (tastie soups), is based there and it has it’s own visitor centre, “old shoppe“ , etc. So I interesting place to take shelter. The café makes good fresh pizza size Scots pancakes. So another good reason to stop. The final run into Portsoy, is along cycle paths with great views into the bay. It was cold so I settled for fish and chips first then a tent pitch by the shoreline of a bay side campsite, (only pitch available). I slept despite the noise of the constant crashing of the waves on the craggy beach. I thought I’d get blown away during the night, but in the morning all was calm and in one piece.

Day 29 - Portsoy - Aberdeen - 86 miles

Again I stuck mainly to national cycle route one or the west and then southerly coastal tourist routes. Over quite undulating roads with a least one 20% incline I recall. The first stop was Macduff, but it wasn’t as interesting as I had hoped and the name suggested. The harbour towns along the coast becoming increasingly larger as I approached Fraserburgh. The harbours containing larger North Sea and Artic fishing trawlers. Quite often they also have there own (deserted) beach. The beach at Fraserburgh looks great. O’Neill are set up beach side running “surf camps” for the local kids. I spotted them earlier in my travels, they are touring Scottish beaches. I always get people asking me where I’m cycling to and from, and of course they are generally amazed and interested when I tell them. Thanks to Gus, who camped next to me this morning in his Fiat camper van. I could do with one of those when I visit Scotland again. It makes for a very comfortable, flexible and affordable holiday. Also thanks to Bruce, a cyclist who stopped to chat to me on the road to Rose hearty. He was able to give me a more realistic appraisal of the distance and prospect of me reaching Stonehaven this evening and suggested Aberdeen instead. Hence I came into Aberdeen. Back on the A90 for the final few miles is not could, particularly when they don’t always provide a cycle lane. Looking for accommodation I lost my bearings. I’m just not used to it after 28 days of small towns and villages. Eventually an hour later (I could have made it to Stonehaven, I had to settle for Holiday Inn Express. I’m going to get my monies worth at breakfast.

Days 24 - Durness - Bettyhill, 25 - Bettyhill - Wick

2010-08-01T16:41:00.003+01:00

Day 24 - Durness -Betty hill - 55miles

Today I wanted to get to Cape Wrath, the northwest tip of the Scottish mainland. You can only get to it by taking a small ferry across the neck of the Kyle of Durness and then 12 miles along a single track road. to the cape. I met a guy from Liverpool who managed to ride to it the day before and he said the track was atrocious and he got 2 punctures. Today the weather is wet and windy. I get to the ferry and the only crossing is at 12 noon. I ring the ferry man and he tells me that he is only making the one trip today because of the conditions and won’t take my bike over. I’ll have to get on the minibus on the 2 hour round. I’m disappointed, but a settle for a bus tour. The ferry is a little boat in a choppy loch. He ferries people at a time. No safety brief, no life jackets. The mini bus journey is mad. The drivers tearing up and down this mountain track at break neck speed, no seatbelts, swinging round, Cliffside roads, no barriers, water spraying everywhere, sheep jumping in and out of the way. This could be a ride at Aulton Towers. I realize that the reason they didn’t want me to ride the track is, they didn’t want to have to contend with a cyclist being an added nuisance on the route. Today I‘m glad I didn‘t. The track is two just trail of potholes, puddles and undergrowth. You could do it on a mountain bike but not in 2 hours. We reach the cape and the lighthouse, but it is thick fog. You can hardly see the lighthouse at 50 yards and you can barely make out the cliff drops to the sea. Bugger. The bus party seeks solace in hot chocolate from the Cape Wrath café. Then we tear down the trail back to the ferry, by which time the sun is shinning and the ferryman has decided to take another group of punters on… to go and stare at the fog and drink hot chocolate.

Smoo cave

Anyway, it’s a late start to the cycling. No time for a trip to the Snoo Cave. The coast and beaches around Durness are fantastic, but it turns grey and wet. A long ride around Loch Eribol. Great views to my left of the highlands such as Ben Hope. Tongue is also a great little village, with castle ruins looking over the Kyle. I look for accommodation but there is non available. Another hill and I arrive at Bettyhill. I know there is a campsite there. I head straight for the Bettyhill Hotel bar to order an evening meal. The haddock and chips are recommended by the group of Scots anglers I sit and chat to. The same group come to the same place every year and keep finding new walks and waters to fish. John recommends his remedy for the midges. Avons “makes you smell like a puff“, but he “dos’nee care”.

I’ve noticed a group of cyclist and support vehicles in the car park. There on the “The Great Tour”, and it’s emblazoned on the vehicles and jackets etc. It turn’s out they are doing a British Isles coastline tour the same as I, but they are going in the opposite direction. It’s in aid of Prostate cancer charity and it has big corporate sponcors. They are doing 6600k, at 100k for (62miles) a day in 64. So bit less than my schedule . Their route has been planned by the guy who organises the “Tour of Britain”. They have a pro cyclist as a guide, and a travelling cook in the support and I would think a bike mechanic. Some guys sign for stages and some are doing the whole thing. And of course they don’t have to carry all their gear with them on panniers. I talk to Brian and Mark, who are really enjoying it. They also get meeted and greeted, or dined, from time to time by local mayors or sponsors. I’m envious.. I find out that Kellogg’s (my employer) are also a co sponsor. How come I didn’t find out?? Are well. It would have been nice to have made the trip with a bunch of guys.. but then I reckon a solo trip will be more of an achievement. It will certainly is harder.

Day 25 - Bettyhill - Thurso - John O’ Groats -Wick - 67 miles

Bettyhill is a small village. Today I breakfast in the local store…tea and croissants. Today, the first 16 miles are hills, but they get easier and then it is flat and fast into JOG. The scenery gets less dramatic. For the past 10 days, all day, I have either being going up a hill or down one. It’s been hard cycling, but fantastic scenery. Although it’s nice to have a change and spin the legs, it is a bit boring. There are still some excellent beaches and bays and castles on route. This is National Cycle Route 1 and I pass more cyclists either starting or finishing their Land’s End - John O’ Groats rides. Thurso, is a good stop off for provisions and inflate the tyres fully at a garage. John O’ Groats, is just souvenir and coffee shops and of course the ferry to the Orkneys that are scattered across the horizon. It’s a shame that the JOG hotel lies in disrepair. I do the usual tourist thing and get my photo taken at the sign… 874 miles to Lands End. Is that all? With 1600 miles on the clock, I’ve turned the corner and come a further 17 miles to Wick. I’m southward bound for the next 1000 or so miles.

Days 22 Aultbea - Archmelvilch & 23 Archmelvich - Durness

2010-07-29T15:00:00.001+01:00

Ullapool

Day 22 - The local Scots have been really friendly and hospitable. Last night I had passed Altbea initially thinking there would be accomodation and food to be found at Laide 3 miles on. When I got there I scouted around but couldn't find much. A local, Angus Mcloud, asked me what I was up to and immediately offered to ring round all the local accomodation to check availability (but infortunately there wasn't). Next morning I've made my way back through Laide and the bay looks stunning in the sunshine, and I'm taking some snaps. "Dean" calls Angus, I look over and he tells me what he'd been up early to take his lobsters to Inverness (80 miles away), and had towed back an old boat to restore.
As for the days cycling, after an hours sunshine, I got drenched again. I eventually got to Ullapool. I last came here 20 years ago, to get a ferry to Stornaway in December. Ullapool looked very dull then, full of Russian boats and seaman. Today it looks a lot more colourful and interesting, a bit of a tourist and cultural hub. It's fish and chips again from the best chippy voted by Radio 4 listeners in 2004. Sounds highly unlikely doesn't it, I think they just made that up, but the fish and chips were good. Being the eternal optimist, I think that it will be a bright evening and press on to Lochinver taking the coastal single track route. It remains overcast, but the scenery is eerily beautiful, down a twisting road through woods, passing small lochs and beaches...and sheep. Then I come across some wild deer on the road side. They take off into woods as soon as they see me. But the stag stays and eyes me from a distance, I do the same and get my camera out. Fot the next hour I keep disturbing more groups of deer by the roadside. No one else is on the road at this time. This is there time to come out and feed. They just weren't expected a cyclist from Manchester. In the end I'm late getting into Achmelvich. The campsite is crammed and noisey.
Day 23 Archmelvich - Bettyhill

This morning I can see why this campsite is so popular. It has a stunning beach. It is packed with Scottish holiday makers who are regulars here. Cycling the Assynt Coastal Trail (about 25 miles) there are a number of great little beacheside campsites like this. So remote and few ammenities, but stunning beaches and scenery. On route a Swiss chap called Michael called me over for some coffee and biscuits. He was in Scotland for 3 weeks "wild camping", every evening by the lochs. He was loving it. His girlfriend was in the car catching up her sleep. I'd thought about doing the same, but I find a campsite easier, to wash and launder, for the next day. It's easier in a car, cos you can just easily throw all your camp gear and clothes in the boot to keep dry. Where as I'm getting constanly wet. I had been warned that the route to Durness would be the hardest (hilliest). The Assynt trail was tough in the hot sunshine, all the way to Kylesku (and a gold star ride). The last 25 miles to Durness were surprisingly easier, especially the last 8-9 miles into Durness, almost all a subtle downhill.

Days 19-21. Portree (Skye) - Kyle of Lochalsh - Loch Carron - Aultbea

2010-07-26T11:41:00.002+01:00

Day 19 - 17 miles. With so much time spent on the netbook on Friday afternoon I decided to ditch the rest of the day's riding and settled for a campsite in Portree. Great little place with a view of the Cuillins.
Day 20 - 64 miles. It was time to leave Skye. In general, it's a great place to visit and there are some wonderful coastal cycle routes. Such as, from Portree to Moll, this morning. But to get up and down the island you have to at some stage get on the A87 which is not pleasant. Found a small bike shop and bought 3 more inner tubes. This may be the last bike shop I before Aberdeen, though I would expect one at John O' Groats. 33 miles and I'm over the Skye Bridge to the Kyle of Lochalsh. Next to the tourist info centre they have the most bizzare public toilets. I had to take a snap.

Then on the coastal route to Plockton, a lovely little village on Loch Carron. I must visit again.

At 60 miles I was approaching Lochcarron (the town) and tempted to press on and tackle the road to Applecross over the Bealach Ba Na. At a previous B 'n'B, John and Effie had told me it was the 2nd highest road in Britain, but probably the steepest. Certainly the most unwelcoming as it is permanently shrouded in rain cloud. As I was carrying the nights camp food and it would add another 20 miles, I thought best to put it off till the morning. Stopped at the "Wee Campsite" at Lochcarron. A pinch at £4. With a great view over the loch and surrounding hills.

Day 21 - 81 miles
A very wet day (have I said that before) . Approaching Beanlach Ba Na you can see very little of the peaks or the road ahead. Within minutes of ascending I'm drenched and the frequent stopping for motorists coming in the opposite direction, makes progress difficult. After about 3 miles it becomes a constant 1 in 5 . It's hard. I know if I stop for another motorist I won't be able to remount the bike. I slip out of the pedals. I can't get back on . I'm close to the top, but how close I can't tell because the road ahead is obscured by clouds. I'm beaten, I turn back and it's a very cold descent as I'm soaked. Apparently there is an annual race up this hill. I'll be back without the panniers.

Back on the road I cycle hard to warm myself up. But it's raining all the way. The Beinn Eighe National Park, looks, rugged, wild and inhospitable as I cycle through it. Tonights stop is a small hotel in Aultbea. I need a few luxuries and the chance to recharge and do my laundry in the shower.

Day 13 & 14 - Isle of Mull. Day 15 - Arnamuchen. Day 16 -18 Isle of Skye

2010-07-23T16:44:00.001+01:00

Days 13 & 14 Isle of Mull

Oban, the “Gateway to the Isles” looked an interesting place if I had more time. I’d to go back just to see what the Coliseum is like at the top of the hill over looking the town, but it was my gateway to Mull. I missed the first ferry, so I caught up with a bit of my blog in a coffee shop. At Craignure on Mull, the tourist information people were super helpful as they always are. You can camp for free anywhere on the island, unless there is a sign to say otherwise. There are only 5 general stores,. so it is best to stock up when you find one. Again it is mainly single track roads. It wasn’t in my original plan but I headed to the western tip of Mull. That meant a lengthy out and back of 40 miles and would put my journey back a day back. But I am 3 days behind already, so no worries. There was a big mountain pass get over. On the down hill I chatted to a chap called Steve on his mountain bike pulling a trailer, full of all sorts of adventure gear. He was just travelling the Western Isles for 3 months, stooping off to climb, swim and mountain bike.

When I got to Fionphort, it was a short ferry to Iona. I had originally thought of a trip to Fingal’s Cave, but that would have meant an additional boat to Staffa (another half days excursion. Instead I chose to camp at Fidden by the beaches and islets looking out to Iona as the sun went down.

Wind and heavy rain greeted me in the morning. I set off to cycle the west coast of Mull. Again all the roads are single track, so it does slow your progress, stopping for cars, avoiding the sheep and cows. A quick pit stop at Pennygael for tea & cake at Carol’s farm house cafe and the sun came out over lake Scridain. A great view. The local “twitchers” were excited about sightings of a Sea Eagle and it’s young. As I passed by Ardmeanach there were groups of them gathered around a hill side hide. The west coast is very hilly and testing. Eventually I reached Calgary Beach, A great white sandy beach. I got ready for a swim. But the water was brown with all the mountain water run off, so I chickened out.

Finally 3 more climbs ( one more than I bargained for) and I made it too Tobermory and it chucked it down. Went for the B n B option. Another gold star bike route, but you have to stocked up with drinks as there are no stores on route.

Day 14 - Tobermory - Kilchoan - Mallaig

Incredibly wet day. I was permanently soaked as made my way over Ardnamurchen to make to the ferry from Mallaig to Skye. I’m very sure this is a nice part of the highlands but it was very hard to appreciate it in all the driving rain. Just made the ferry in time and again chose a B n B as there was no local campsite.

Day 15, 16, 17- Skye

Another wet day and this time 45 mph gusts as I skirted around the Cuillen Hills, but I couldn’t see them. Made my way to a campsite, looking out over Loch Dunvegan. The weather miraculously improved and it was a fabulous place to watch the sun go down.

Next day, I’m greated by sunshine and blue skies and an opportunity to take a detour and walk down to the “Coral Beach”. Another loch side white sandy beach. It was low tide, so again no chance of a swim, just a paddle. My day was dogged by repeated slow punctures. I couldn’t work it out. I had the tyres inside out and the rims were OK. I kept to the North Coast route until I reached Uig. This is the ferry Port for Skye to Harris and the Outer Hebrides and the home of the Skye Brewery. The next 16 mile stretch to Staffin takes you around the northern tip of Skye and has great views out to the Outer Herbridean Islands and then a great mountain range as you approach Staffin. Another gold star run. The campsite at Staffin has great views back to the bay and the mountain range and another great sunset.

Today I am making my way down the east coast of the island. It's been fantastic so far and I think I've sorted out my slow punctures. First stop off was Kilt Rock and great views of sea cliffs and a waterfall. Then mountain range on right and the The Storr. This is Skyes Jurassic Coast and dinosaur foot prints have been found. Spent the last few hours in Portree (The King's harbour). A pretty little harbour town. good fish and chips, and a community hall with wi-fi access. I might not get much further today. Skye has been a beautifull island, when the suns shining. Very hilly. Mad drivers on the main A roads. Some times you can't avoid using them. As I will have to, to get to my next stop, back to the Scottish mainland and more of the Highlands.

Day 10 Brodick - Lachranza (Arran) - Carradale (Kintyre) & Day 11 Carradale - Campbelltown - Southend - Mull of Kintyre - Campbelltown & Day 12 - Campbelltown - Tarbet - Longhilphead - Oban

2010-07-23T15:02:00.002+01:00

Day 10 - You can get around Arran on a coastal road totalling 55 miles . I took a clockwise route from due east, Brodick , where I came in on the ferry, to due north, Lachranza, where I would catch another ferry to cross over to Kintyre. approximately 40 miles. The southern route is undulating as you have to climb over headland to then descend into some picturesque harbour towns such as Lamlash and Whiting Bay. I stopped of at Blackwater’s harbour for a picnic lunch. After that, I couldn't resist a walk down the beach and started following signs for a cliff side walk to the King’s Caves. This turned into a 5 mile hike, but it was all worthwhile. I bumped into a retired school teacher who became my tour guide. The caves are said to be where Robert the Bruce and his army hid away from King James IV. A bit like Bin Laden in Bora Bora. The caves were impressive and certainly large enough to hide away a small army. There are some old carvings on the walls of a cross (for Christian worship I should think), some deer and dogs, and the usual additions from later visitors. Strangely enough, some impressive graffiti from the 1880's. Carving “Fred Bloggs was 'ere” was obviously a fad kicked off by the Victorian graffiti artist, always with a hammer and chisel handy in case an opportunity arose. The weather improved for a shore side cycle into Lachranza. So few tourists, so few people or communities in general, on this part of the Arran coast. I made the last ferry crossing over to Cloanaig Bay. In stark contrast to yesterday’s crossing., only a handful of cars and foot passengers made the crossing and the landing was deserted, no town, no nothing. Everyone bar me, headed across country. Only I turned south into Kintyre. For the first time I felt I was in getting away from...it all?. Well, it felt remote just me and the bike and a quiet evening. The only major road is on the west coast and on the east coast it’s a single track road which goes up and down like a roller coaster ride. I thought I’d cycle until I found a campsite. It was 15 miles later before I found one at Carradale, with just time for a late supper, before pitching my tent at a bay side campsite, before nightfall.

Day-11 Carradale - Campbelltown - Southend - Mull of Kintyre - Campbeltown

A gales blew all night and I thought I was going to loose the tent. One of the drawbacks with picking a sea front campsite. The natural windbreaks provided, (bushes) didn’t protect me. The heritage centre at Carradale does a great breakfast and home baking on site. I bought an "effie" as an energy snack for later. A sort of thick biscuit or slice made with oats and condensed milk and packed with calories. Again the ride along the east coast was a single track and a continuous roller coaster. Today’s riding was going to be the hardest so far. I stopped off at Campbelltown and had a mooch around. The town has a rich history. Originally settled by Irish Christians, invaded by the Vikings, fought over by the McDougalls and Campbells. Until recently, very industrious with coal mining, timber and fishing. More roller coaster cycling, to Southend and then on to the Mull. I'm sure I'm not alone, but I was left emotionally scarred by Paul McCartney’s, Xmas single, "Mull of Kintyre". It had taken me a long time to recover from Rod Stewarts's "Sailing" a few years earlier. This was to be a cathartic journey. No, it was a gruelling 7 mile ride, on a very loose, single track to 1400 feet, and the weather wasn't kind, blowing a gale, against me all the way. When I got to the top it was dark, dismal and raining... and the view over the sea and many islands a bit disappointing. I then made a careful descent, this time the sun broke and the views back, across to and Sanda Island and Arran made up for the disappointment. This area of Scotland seams quite remote and a lot of effort to get to. The sort of place you would choose to live to get away from it all. A quick cuppa in Southend and then it was a quick run back to Campletown on the relatively flat B842. I found a B’n’B. An old rectory run by the hospitable, George and Margaret McSporran. Forgive me, but I‘d always thought that was a comedy Scots name. I spotted a letter from the Queen on the landing. George had a distinguished 30 year career in the coastguard and received the CBE. Although he is of retirement age he now works for the mountain rescue service,. In April he suffered multiple injuries from a 200 foot fall, during a mountain rescue. Although not quite recovered, he looks, fit, healthy and energetic and gets around on his bike.

Day 12 - Campbelltown - Tarbet - Longhilphead - Oban - 93 miles

Campbelltown was the ideal place to stock up on a few necessities and get the washing done, at the local laundrette. This inevitably led to a late morning start. So far, on this trip, it has been difficult to get an early start on the road. When you camp you have the gas stove cooking, wash up, queue for the shower, pack your tent, load up the bike routine. With a B’n’B, there’s no point leaving before breakfast, because you’ve paid for it and you need to get down as much off it as you can to fuel up for the day.

George and Margaret had warned me that the west coast road, the A83 was busy, with fast, moving and heavy vehicles as it is the main road out to Glasgow (130 miles). You had to be vigilant but it wasn’t that bad. Nothing like the traffic we experience back home.. Another wet start and more bad weather was predicted. Still, some good views over to Isla and Gigha and a few small picturesque harbours along the way. I then travelled along the eastern shore of Loch Tarbert until I reached the isthmus that connects Kintyre to Argyll and harbour town of Tarbert itself, on Loch Fyne. The Vikings used to drag their boats across town from one loch to the other. No one does it these days. Tarbert is a pretty place when the sun shines with lots of colourful old boats and shop fronts, and a Mecca for tourists. I good spot for a picnic lunch.

The sun and the relatively fast road made it pleasant journey to Logilphead. I thought I’d give the local “fish supper” a try seeing I was on Loch Fyne. But I was again disappointed, more batter than fish. Lochgilphead looked a bit boring to stay over and even though I had a belly full of fish and chips, the late evening sunshine enticed me to see how near I could get to Oban (38 miles away and the crossing to Mull ), before camp. First, over the Glen of Kilmartin, a place of pagan worship, and then passing through a handful of loch side hamlets, but not a single campsite could I find, but some great sunset views over Lochs Melfort and Fochan. Eventually at dusk and after 90 odd miles I was at Oban. I found the directions to a campsite and put up by tent in the dark.

Day 9 -Ballantrea to Arran - 66 miles & a ferry ride

2010-07-14T23:31:00.000+01:00

I'll make this a short report as the broadband connection is very erratic. My original mobile is also down with my contact numbers in it. For the next 10 days I'll probably find it difficult to keep in regular contact. Carl if you are reading, I'm sorry I haven't called back. I'm about 2 days behind on my itinery and I don't think I will be able to reach Inverness by the 23rd.to meet up. I am more likely to get there in 14 days, the 28th. Please drop me an email soon. Todays ride took me pretty close to the shore line for a lot of the way and I was able to keep Arran in my sights. I had a spectacular view of the Culzean Bay area as I descended into Culzean Bay, with Culzean Castle nestling in a Scots Pine forrest. Richard at the last B'n'B had recommended A stop at Dunmore, with it's castle ruins adjacent to a craggy beach, but more importantly a lunchtime stop at a cafe by the small harbour that which years ago would have been crammed with a fleet of the locals "herring boats". This is golf country and I passed both Turnberry and Troon. Rain was forecast for today. I had expected the wind behind me. All day it was northerly and against but I managed the 6pm ferry from Androssan. As soon as I stepped foot on Arran the rain came down in buckets. Sod the camping, I'm in a B'n'B again..

Day 8 - Creektown - Glenluce 55 miles & Day 9 Glenluce to Ballantrae 88 miles

2010-07-13T23:43:00.005+01:00

Day 8- Creektown - Wigtown - Isle of Whihorn - Port William - Glenluce.
A perfect day for cycling, blue skies,sunny with some clouds and a cool breeze, as I cycled the "The Machas".This has to be the best day of my trip so far and it will go down in my list of favourite cycle routes with a gold star. Fantastic scenery and views over the Solway and out to the Rhins Penninsula and interesting places to visit and stop at on the way. Wigtown is Scotlands National Book Town. I asked a lady in a coffee shop why? Did any famous authors ever reside here?...No. Were the locals well read? ...She didn't think so. They just have a lot of bookshops for a small town. Then on to the Isle of Whithorn. The site of the first Christian settlement in Britian, and first saint, St Ninian. Who hid in a cave around 700-800 AD, when Vikings came looking. The view from the harbour is exceptional. A great place for lunch (though it's best to bring your own) and sit and watch the locals messing about with their boats in the harbour. The ride back is all along the coast from Port William, with great views over over Luce Bay to The Rhins (that bit of southern Scotland that sticks out like a hammer head). Stayed at the Glen Luce Caravan park, Iren e Rankin kindly refused to charge me when I told her I was raising money for Charity ( so I wll bank it as a donation). She has also played host to " Amy goes costal " a women walking the british coastline and another chap cycling to all the lighthouses. I might catch up with them as I make my way around.

Day 9 - Glenluce- Drumore-The Mull of Galloway- Port Logan - Portpatrick - Kirkcolm - Ballantrae -

Initially I hadn't planned to include The Rhins in my tour. But how could I leave it out and not venture to the southern most part of Scotland.. It was another great ride, fanatastic coastal road out to Drunmore the most southerly town in Scotland. Then a 5 mile, winding and undulating single track road , with cows waiting to ambush you, to the tip or mull of Galloway,. This is like Scotland's "Lands End", lighthouse, visitor centre, cafe and shop. But it's not tacky, and the views far more interesting, the peaks of Scotland, the Lake District, Isle of Man, Ireland. I then made my way up north to the opposite end of the Rhins. On the way, I dropped in at Port Logan. A beautiful spot, a wide, gently sloping beach, vitrually deserted, Perfect for swimming. I copped out and went for a paddle to cool the legs off . Over the past 2 days, I've concluded that this area would be a perfect location for training base . I think I'l give Lanzarote a miss next spring and come here.. From the north side you can see the Western IsIes of Scotland. At 70 miles I was at Stranraer, I didn't fancy staying there , so I kicked on another 15 miles to Ballentrae, including a draining 5 mile climb, just finishing me off, but as I descended into town I was rewarded with more dramatic views of the western isles, where I hope to be very soon..

I've been struggling to upload video clips.Still working on it.

Photo: Drumore

Days 4-7 Broughton In Furness - St Bees - Allonby- Bankend - Creektown

2010-07-12T11:13:00.004+01:00

Unfortunately, couldn't get a charge or internet access the past 4 days and I haven't been able to provide any updates. By the end of my first week I am now at Creektown in Dumfrieshire along the north Solway Coast. I've travelled 495 miles so far. So I have hit my target of 70 miles a day...but I haven't got as far as I thought I would. Going down all the coastal lanes and in and out of estuaries really puts on the miles.
On Day 4 I arrived at St Bees (50miles) ,which is the start (or end ) of the popular Coast 2 Coast walk. Throughout the day you can see walkers and cyclists either setting off or walking down the large cliff path that overlooks the bay. I camped at the adjacent campsite. I then realised I had left my spare mobile phone at my last stop. Luckily Jane Rousseau, from the Square Cafe B'n'B where I had stayed the night before had found it and emailed me. That night it was constant rain and a howling wind, so I didn't sleep much.
Day 5 and it continued to rain all day, and the rest of England has been having blistering sunshine. I didn't want to retrace my steps on the bike. I found a positive. and an opportunity to take the west lakeland coastal train which is quite pleasant. just a pity about the rain. Jane kindly gave me a lift back to the railway station at Foxfield. This station is a popular destination for residents all over the region as it is directly opposite the Prince Of Wales Pub which serves exclusively real ales with it's own micro brewey. In fact most people I saw get off the train walk directly across the lane and into the pub. Due to my late start I only managed 27 miles on the bike passing Whitehaven and Workington. In this short journey I left the west lakeland peaks behind and joined the southern Solway Coastline. I stayed at another campsite at Allonby. £14 for a single tent was a rip off. Another wet and windy night. Day 6 the rain and south westerleys winds were fierce all day as I rode into Carlisle for a few provision, mainly following the cycle route 71. There, a fellow cyclist ,Tim Solace, introduced himself. Tim is riding a scenic route from John ' O ' Groats to Lands Ends. We had a coffee and compared notes, on bikes things, weight distribution, route planning "the optimum number of pairs of underpants." ( I said ""one). I later called into the Palace Cycles in town to refit new panniers. The ones I was using were 13 years old. I thought I might get away without replacing them before this trip, but they had become a pain in the neck always slipping off the pannier rack. When I restarted, I continued riding the Solway Coastal Heritage Route late into the evening, reaching Bankend and a B'n'B owned by Kevin and Lynn. Their hospitality and the accomadation was superb and Kevin was full of useful information. Apparently Kirkpatrick MacMillan invented the bicycle here in 1832.
Day 7 Took me further west along the Solway Coast, mostly against the wind, and a few estuaries to navigate. Passed Sandy Hill beach campsite which looked like an ideal spot for future camping but too soon in todays journey. Stopped for lunch at Rockcliffe on the Colvend Coast has a picturesque craggy beach and views looking out to Rough Island . More rain and hills before arriving at Creektown. Not a bad place with a castle in the grounds and a Pub to eat and watch the cup final. Pictures Haverigg and St Bees

Day 3 Morecambe - Silverdale - Arnside- Grange - Ulverston- Barrow - Broughton- in Furness -90 miles

2010-07-08T11:04:00.001+01:00

The view over the Morcambe Bay to the Lake District is stunning and gets better as you make your way around the bay. The day started cold and wet, but turned to bright sunshine by the afternoon as I made my way along the northern coast of the bay with the South Lakes along side me. The coastal route into Barrow was an unexpected treat, looking over the vast expenses of sand and wetlands. Stopped off a Budhist Temple for a cup of tea... Thought about asking for a room for the night. By the end of the day I had only reached Barrow, but didn't want to stay the night there. I also couldn't resist the urge to hop over to Walney Island and get to the Southern End, just to say I'd been there. In the end it was approaching 9pm and 90 miles when I arrived at Broughton in Furness.

Day 2 : Southport - St Ann's - Blackpool - Fleetwood - Knotts End - Lancaster - Morcambe. 84 mile - 6hours

2010-07-08T09:42:00.003+01:00

Much of the day spent negotiating the Ribble and Wyre Estuarys, which took me back towards Preston and then Lancaster, two places I wouldn't have associated with a coastal bike ride. A pretty dull day for the most part. I felt a touch of nostalgia as I approached Blackpool's Golden Mile. Being brought up in the North West. I had many a day trip to Blackpool as a child and it was always a exciting day out. I last visited over 30 years ago, as part of a group of 20 trainee nurses in a hired transit van... good memories. Today, it looks a horrendous, a shambles... how can they call it the golden mile. A quick ice cream and I was away. Cleverly's next door was far nicer. In the 2nd half of journey I managed to use a number of natonal cycle routes making it a pleasant ride from Knotts End, by-passing Lancaster and finally arriving at Morecambe, The target was Arnside another 16 miles away. But 80 miles was enough and it was 8pm. I managed to find a nice B&;B and landlady Alice, with a great view over Morecambe Bay to the familiar peaks of the Lake District.

Blackpool Photo Archive - Me (196?) - My Dad (195?) - Great Grandad (193?) in typical beachware

Day 1 : Stretford to Southport - Trans Pennine Trail- 82miles - 6hours

2010-07-06T09:27:00.006+01:00

A big thankyou to my sister Lynne and brother-in law Peter who came to see me off this morning, and a big thankyou to Dave Leak (Manchester Triathlon Club) who came to join me part way. What a glorious day for cycling. Overall the trail is a very pleasant ride, but probably a bit rough in places for a fully laden touring bike. And a bit of a pain negotiating what seemed like 100 gates on route. Dave had planned a stop at Fiddlers Ferry for lunch, a great vantage point on the route to view the the Mersey Estuary, but unfortunately the Fiddlers Tavern weren't selling lunch so we had to nip into Widnes instead. After a few drinks Dave, hopped back home on the train and I continued, through Hale. I last visited on a school field trip and still remember the tale of the Child of Hale, of the 16th Centrury, said to be 9 foot 3 inches and had to sleep with his feet stuck out of the window. The trail often takes you across town and can easily be lost in Liverpool. For the most part it is well sign posted, but sometimes there are just stickers on lamposts that can easily be missed. Eventually made it to Formby Point and it's vast sand dunes and then Southport. Somehow contrived to cycle 80 miles. No chance to cool off in the sea which was on the horizon. Perhaps tommorrow. Lynne, thanks for the aloe vera gel. I forgot to use sunscreen today so it was vey soothing.

1 day to go

2010-07-04T22:52:00.000+01:00

The bags are packed and I'm ready to go... just a few loose ends to tidy up at home. I've said most of my goodbyes. Did my last gig with the band, last night. I'll need to be back for the next gig Saturday September 4th (Lloyd's, Chorlton). Feeling a bit anxious about the trip. The plan is to take the Trans-Pennine Trail to Southport, and stop at a B&B the first night. 10 am start planned with Dave Leak from Manchester Triathlon Club to keep me company for the ride as far as Warrington, and a "pub lunch". I'll be having a fruit based beverage, but I bet Dave will be having something stronger.